Guixin Chou , Enyuan Zhu , 이수연 Su Yeon Lee , 김영희 Young Heui Kim , 박선기 Sun Ki Park , 오선택 Sun Tack Oh , 김기호 Ki Ho Kim

DOI:

Abstract

In order to search for new whitening cosmetic ingredients from Chinese herbal extracts including Chinese herbs and complex prescriptions from TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine), we screened about 47 TCM extracts collected from China. We tested their inhibitory effects on melanogenesis by using in vitro tyrosinase inhibition assay and B16 melanoma cells. We selected Siphonostegia chinensis and Salvianic miltiorrhiza Bunge. We isolated Danshensu (α,3,4-trihydroxybenzenepropanoic acid sodium salt) from Salvianic miltiorrhiza Bunge extract and tested its inhibitory effect on melanin formation in B16-F10 melanoma cells. Danshensu suppressed melanin synthesis up to about 50 % at a concentration of 100 μg/mL. Siphonostegia chinensis suppressed melanin synthesis up to about 60 % at a concentration of 300 μg/mL. The results showed that these extracts could be used as new natural active ingredients for whitening cosmetics.

Key Words

melanin, TCM, B16-F10 melanoma, whitening, Siphonostegia chinensis, sodium danshensu

이응지 Eung Ji Lee , 배성윤 Seong Yun Bae , 이용화 Yong Hwa Lee

DOI:

Abstract

To develop a natural stimulating agent for hair melanogenesis, we investigated the stimulatory effects of Epimedium koreanum Nakai extract (EKNE) on melanogenesis. EKNE both increased melanin content in B16 melanoma cells up to about 104 % and intracellular tyrosinase activity up to about 95 % at a concentration of 50 μg/mL without cell cytotoxicity (below 100 μg/mL). From the result of western blot, we could find that EKNE dose-dependently induce the expression of TRP-2. Also, EKNE increased melanogenesis up to about 25 % at a concentration of 5 % (w/v) in back hair of C3H/Hej mouse. These results suggest that EKNE has an effect to stimulate melanin formation through the induction of tyrosinase activity and TRP-2 expression which are involved in melanin synthesis in melanocyte. Therefore, we suggest that EKNE could be used as a useful melanogenesis stimulator for development of natural hair cosmetics.

Key Words

melanogenesis, Epimedium koreanum Nakai, hair, tyrosinase, TRP-2

김상진 Sang-jin Kim , 이명희 Myoung-hee Lee

DOI:

Abstract

The 3-dimensional quantitative structure-activity relationships (3D-QSARs) models between the substituents with changing groups (R₁ & R₂) of 4-(R₁)-benzyl alcohol and 4-(R₂)-phenol derivatives as substrate molecule and their inhibitory activities against tyrosinase were derived and discussed quantitatively. The optimized CoMSIA 2 model have best predictability and fitness (r² = 0.858 & q² = 0.951). The contour maps of optimized CoMSIA 2 model showed that, the inhibitory activities of the analogues against tyrosinase were expected to increase when hydrophobic favor, negative charge favor, steric disfavor and hydrogen bond donor disfavor groups were substituted at the R₂ position. When the positive charge and the hydrogen bond donor favor groups were substituted at the R₁ position, it is predicted that the substituents will be able to increase the inhibitory activity. However, hydrogen bond acceptor did not affect inhibitory activities of tyrosinase.

Key Words

CoMFA, CoMSIA, 3D-QSAR, 4-(R₁)-benzyl alcohol and 4-(R₂)-phenol analogues, Tyrosinase inhibitory activity

김미진 Mi Jin Kim , 임경란 Kyung Ran Im , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

DOI:

Abstract

Forsythia fructus has been shown to have antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antitumor, antibacterial, antipyretic and anti-aging activities. This work was carried out to investigate the anti-inflammatory effects of the Korean traditional medicinal prescriptions containing Forsythia viridissima extract. The prescriptions containing Forsythia fructus were evaluated for antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on lipoxygenase activity and on LPS-induced NO and PGE₂ production. In human irritation test, they did not show any adverse effect. Based on these results, we suggest that the se prescriptions hold great promise for application as an anti-inflammatory agent for trouble skins such as atopic dermatitis and acne.

Key Words

prescription extracts containing Forsythia viridissima, anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidative effect, prostaglandin E₂, nitric oxide

김진화 Jin-hwa Kim , 오정영 Jung-young Oh , 이근수 Geun-soo Lee , Yong He Zhang , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

DOI:

Abstract

Human skin is constantly exposed to environmental irritants such as smoke, chemicals and ultraviolet (UV). Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by these environmental irritants play critical roles in cellular damage. In this study, to investigate the skin cell protective effect of Ophioglossum vulgatum extract, we investigated its effects on intercellular antioxidative activity and UVA-induced MMP expression in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). The dried O. vulgatum was extracted in a mixture of ethanol and water (1 : 1) for 24 h at room temperature. The extract was filtered and concentrated in vacuo and lyophilized. For testing intracellular ROS scavenging activity the cultured HDFs were analyzed by increase in DCF fluorescence upon exposure to UVB 20 mJ/cm². After treatment of O. vulgatum extracts, intracellular ROS levels were measured by luminescence spectrophotometer. Enzyme linked immuno sorbent assay (ELISA), and RT-PCR techniques were used for evaluating the effects of O. vulgatumon on MMP protein and mRNA expression in UVA irradiated HDFs. O. vulgatum extract was found to have ROS scavenging activity with the IC₅₀ values of 18.2 μg/mL against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system. After treatment of O. vulgatum extracts, the oxidation of CM-DCFDA was inhibited effectively and O. vulgatum extracts showed a potent free radical scavenging activity by 30.4 % at 100 μg/mL in UVB-irradiated HDFs. UVA induced MMP protein expression was reduced 37.7 % by treatment with O. vulgatum extract, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced in a dose-dependent manner. Taken together, these results suggest that O. vulgatum extract prevents the skin cell damage induced by UV irradiation, and implies that O. vulgatum extract may be useful as a new ingredient for anti-aging cosmetics.

Key Words

ophioglossum vulgatum, antioxidant, ultraviolet, matrix metalloproteinase, anti-aging

김은희 Eun Hee Kim , 김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we investigated the antioxidative activity and inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase of Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of ethyl acetate fractions of Persicaria hydropiper L. was 5.23 μg/mL. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of some Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol - dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ROS scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of ethyl acetate fractions of Persicaria hydropiper L. was 0.40 μg/mL. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Persicaria hydropiper L. on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 μg/ mL). Inhibitory effects (IC₅₀) on tyrosinase of aglycone fraction of Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts was 8.90 μg/mL. Inhibitory effects (IC₅₀) on elastase of aglycone fraction of Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts was 2.37 μg/mL. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Persicaria hydropiper L. can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by anti-oxidative activity and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Persicaria hydropiper L. extract / fractions could be used as a new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

Key Words

Persicaria hydropiper, flavonoid, antiaging, antioxidant, cosmetics

김진영 Jin Young Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In the previous study, we evaluated and reported about the anti-oxidative activities of extract/fraction of Castanea crenata leaf. Extract/fraction of Castanea crenata leaf showed excellent free radical scavenging activity, cell protective activity and inhibitory activity on tyrosinase and elastase. In this study, in order to investigate the stability of cream containing 0.2 % Castanea crenata ethyl acetate fraction. pH, viscosity, and absorbance were measured under 4 different temperature (4 ℃, 20 ℃, 37 ℃, 45 ℃) and under the sun light at 2 weeks intervals for the 8 weeks. The variations on pH and viscosity of all experimental creams were similar to control cream. The absorbance variation of extract from experimental cream at 353 nm was in the order: under the sun > 45 ℃ > 37 ℃ > 20 ℃ > 4 ℃. It shows that ethyl acetate fraction in the cream can be oxidized under the sun. The bad smell and discoloration were not shown. Also, physical changes as creaming and cohesion were not shown. Also, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and water contents in skin were measured. The cream containing Castanea cranata leaf extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 120 min, TEWL of parts was decreased as 29.7 % (experimental cream) and 5.4 % (control cream) respectively. And the water contents in skin were increased 22.6 % (experimental cream) and 24.7 % (control cream) respectively. It was confirmed that a cream containing ethyl acetate fraction of Castanea crenata leaf shows the superior moisturizing effect. The results showed that Castanea crenata leaf extract could be used as a new active ingredient for anti-aging cosmeceuticals.

Key Words

Castanea crenata, cosmetic stability test, viscosity, absorbance

추수진 Soo-jin Choo , 김영희 Young-hee Kim , 류인자 In-ja Ryoo , 허광화 Guang-hua Xu , 유익동 Ick-dong Yoo

DOI:

Abstract

In our search for the natural cosmetic ingredients, we found that Euryale ferox seed extract exhibited the strong antioxidative activity. Five active compounds were isolated from the ethyl acetate extract through various chromatographic methods and their structures were determined by NMR and MS spectral analysis. These compounds were identified as fucosterol (1), 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl)-4-[(7'R),5'-dihydroxy-3'-methoxybenzyl]tetrahydrofuran (2), resorcinol (3), pyrogallol (4) and 4-O-methylgallicacid (5).We evaluated the antioxidative, antielastase activities and melanogenesis inhibitory effects of these compounds. The SC⁵⁰ values of compounds 2 ∼ 5 for free radical scavenging activity were 17.0 ∼ 100.2 μM and especially compounds 4 and 5 were 6-fold more effective than ferulic acid as a positive control. And compounds 2 ∼ 4 inhibited human neutrophil elastase with IC₅₀ values of 18.8 ∼ 78.2 μM and compound 3 also inhibited melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells with an IC₅₀ value of 492.8 μM. These results suggest that Euryale ferox extract having a lot of various active ingredients may be useful as a natural multi-functioning agent.

Key Words

Euryale ferox, antioxidative, antielastase, melanogenesis, elastase inhibition

박금주 Keum Ju Park , 박승희 Seung Hee Park , 김재기 Jae Ki Kim

DOI:

Abstract

Chronic exposure of solar ultraviolet (UV) light to human skin results in photoaging with wrinkle formation. This study was performed to investigate anti-wrinkle effects of Lindera obtusiloba extract (LO) on UVB-induced wrinkle formation. We first measured cell proliferation and type I pN collagen synthesis activities in normal human dermal fibroblasts. Cell proliferation and type I pN collagen synthesis were increased by 33.8 % and 91.8 %, respectively, compared with no treatment control. SKH-1 hairless mice were topically applied 5 % LO solution for 10 weeks with UVB irradiation three times a week. After 10 weeks, a visual assessment and replica assay were performed on each mouse. According to visual assessment of close-up photos and skin replica, application of 5 % LO solution inhibited UV-induced wrinkle formation in mouse skin as compared to the vehicle-applied control mice. These results indicated that LO could protect skin wrinkle formation caused by chronic photo-irradiation in hairless mice.

Key Words

Lindera obtus, loba extract, anti-wrinkle, ultra violet, free radical

강명규 Myung Kyu Kang , 원보령 Bo Ryoung Won , 이동국 Dong-kuk Lee , 이수영 Suw Young Ly , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

We studied square-wave stripping voltammetry (SWV) to analyze quantitatively rutin contained in transparent skin-lotion using graphite electrode. The optimum analytical conditions for quantitative analysis of rutin were determined and the linear range was obtained of 1 ~ 8 μg/mL. The relative standard deviation of fifteen times repetition measurement for 0.1 μg/mL of rutin was 0.080 and the detection limit was 0.01 μg/mL, respectively. We considered that this study could be used for quantitative analysis of active components contained in cosmetics.

Key Words

graphite, cosmetic, rutin, square-wave voltammetry, quantitative analysis